A Lovely Town in L’Aquila

Sulmona is a city and commune of the Province of L’Aquila in Abruzzo, Italy. It has a population of about 25 thousand inhabitants. It is situated in the valley of the Gizio, in a spacious basin formed by the junction of that river with several minor streams. In ancient times, it was one of the most important cities of the Paeligni and is known for being the native town of Ovid, of whom there is a bronze statue in the square known as Piazza XX Settembre located on the town’s main road also under his name.

The chief celebrity of Sulmona (Sulmo in ancient times) derives from its being the birthplace of Ovid, who repeatedly alludes to it as such, and celebrates its salubrity, and the numerous streams of clear and perennial water in which its neighbourhood abounded. But, like the whole district of the Paeligni, it was extremely cold in winter, whence Ovid himself, and Silius Italicus in imitation of him, calls it “gelidus Sulmo”. Its territory was fertile, both in corn and wine, and one district of it, the Pagus Fabianus, is particularly mentioned by Pliny for the care bestowed on the irrigation of the vineyards.

The remains of the ancient city are of little interest as ruins, but indicate the existence of a considerable town. Among them are the vestiges of an amphitheatre, a theatre, and thermae, all of them located outside the gates of the modern city.

In 1706 the city was nearly razed to the ground by an earthquake. While, much of the medieval city was destroyed by the earthquake, some remarkable buildings survive such as the Church of Santa Maria della Tomba, the Palazzo Annunziata, the Aqueduct and the Gothic portal on Corso Ovidio. Much of the city was then rebuilt in the prevailing elegant Baroque style of the 18th Century. Sulmona experienced an economic boom in the late 19th Century due its railway hub and strategic geographic position between Rome and the Adriatic coast. This strategic position also made it a target for air raids during World War II. The railway station, the industrial sections and parts of the old town were damaged, but today they have been mostly restored.

Very near Sulmona is the hermitage of Sant’ Onofrio, at about 600 metres of altitude. It was here that Pietro da Morrone received the news of his papal crowning with the name of Celestine V. Because he later abdicated the papacy in he became known as “pope of the Great Refusal”. It is still possible to see the location where Pietro da Morrone used to sleep and the original frescoes of his time.

At the foot of the Morrone mountain stands Italic evidence of importance, the Sanctuary of Hercules Curino. This is the place where the chiefs of the people of the Italic League took an oath against Rome in the social war in the far 89 B.C. First century mosaics are still evident in this location.

Campo 78 at Sulmona served as a POW camp in both world wars. During World War I, it housed Austrian prisoners and during World War II it was home to as many as 3,000 British troops captured in North Africa. The camp itself was built on a hillside and consisted of a number of brick barracks surrounded by a high wall.

Sulmona has various piazzas, churches and palaces of historical and tourist interest. Some of these include:
* Cattedrale di San Panfilo. The city’s cathedral, sitting on the northwest side of the old city and was built on the site of a Roman temple. It contains a crypt which retains its Romanesque appearance despite the 18th Century renovation of the main church.
* Piazza XX Settembre. One of the main squares of the city, including a bronze statue of the Roman poet Ovid.
* Corso Ovidio. The city’s main thoroughfare connects the cathedral and the major piazzas and is lined by elegant covered arcades, shops, cafes, palaces and churches.
* Palazzo Annunziata and Chiesa della SS. Annunziata. The Palace contains a fine museum showing the Roman history of the city as well as various artifacts. The church is a fine example of Baroque architecture and has a beautiful interior and bell tower.
* Piazza Garibaldi is the largest square in town with a large baroque era fountain. A Palio style medieval festival and horse race known as the Giostra Cavalleresca takes place here every year in the Summer. At Easter, crowds gather to witness the Madonna che Scappa. This ceremony involves the procession of a statue of the Madonna who is carried across the square while the bearers run to encounter a statue of the resurrected Christ on the other side of the square. On the south side of the Piazza is the 12th Century Gothic aqueduct. The square hosts a market twice a week on Wednesdays and Saturdays.

About three kilometers from Sulmona, at the foot of the Monte Morrone, are some ruins of reticulated masonry, probably belonging to a Roman villa, traditionally believed to be Ovid’s.

Sulmona hosts a large monastery which is currently in the process of being renovated.

At one time the monastery housed prisoners with a new penitentiary now having taken its place.

Visitors to Sulmona sometimes pay a visit to the nearby go kart raceway.

Sulmona is the home of the Italian confectionery known as confetti. These are sugar coated almonds traditionally given to friends and relatives on weddings and other special occasions. Confetti can be eaten or used as decoration. The local artisans also color these candies and craft them into flowers and other creations. There are two main factories in town and several shops that sell these items.